Everything You Need to Know About Laminate Flooring

If you are considering replacing your old floor with laminate flooring this article will help you understand everything you need to know.

In the Ultimate Guide To Laminate Flooring I’ll discuss the pro’s and cons of laminate flooring, why some laminates cost more than others, how to shop for laminate flooring, how to measure your home and what tools you will need should you decide to install it yourself.

What is Laminate Flooring?

Laminate flooring offers an excellent and affordable solution to your flooring needs. In most cases it can be installed in all areas of your home including areas that hardwood and tile could not be due to various sub-floor conditions.

You can find laminates that simulate hardwood, ceramic tile, marble or granite and for the do-it-yourselfer they offer a faster and easier installation.

In general laminate flooring is more durable and more easily maintained than its authentic counterparts. The wear layer is often over 10 times harder. They resist uv rays from the sun and as a result are much more resistant to fading. Because they are non-porous, they are much easier to keep clean, can be cleaned with a dry mop and most will have significant stain warranties.

Cheaper, easier and more durable. Sounds like a no brainer doesn’t it? Laminates however, are not fool proof and as a smart consumer you need to do some research. Read reviews and ask questions because..

– most laminate floors look great the day you install them. It’s what they look like after a few years of foot traffic that matters.

When the average person only shops and buys flooring a couple times in their life and with so many different flooring products available, it’s hard to know where to begin.

So where do you begin your search for laminate floors? Do you browse the isles of the nearest big box hardware store? Drive to the nearest flooring liquidator? Maybe you prefer to do the bulk of your shopping right here on the internet? Regardless of how you gather your information you’ll probably find…

Finding knowledgeable help in retail stores is next to impossible.

When you do find it, it’s biased and unconvincing.

You’ll probably never have a chance to meet and talk with anyone who actually owns the laminate flooring you’re interested in.

Working for a major flooring retailer has given me the opportunity to visit hundreds of homes with laminate flooring. I’ve seen the good, the bad and the ugly. Or maybe I should say, the beautiful, the just okay and then the down right depressing. So what’s the difference anyway, aren’t all laminate floors basically the same?

No, all laminate floors are not the same! The laminate flooring industry is HUGE and just like any other industry with a demanding market base your options are mind boggling. Some laminates have stronger, denser core boards than others. Some have tighter and stronger locking systems than others. Some are thicker than others. Some have more moisture resistance than others. Some just simply look better and have a more realistic appearance than others.

Not convinced yet? Then imagine this… after some due diligence you find a retailer you trust, they have a nice laminate and most importantly they have a great price. Upon completion you’re happy because…

That old nasty carpet is finally gone!

Your new floor looks great!

With the big fancy warranty your new floor came with you’ll never have to worry about flooring again!

Then, just one year later, your floor is falling apart. The seams, where the boards lock together, are swelling, the boards are buckling and in some area’s where the tongue and groove locking system has failed the boards are separating. The installer doesn’t answer your calls, the flooring retailer passes the buck and refers you back to the manufacturer, the manufacturer, as luck would have it, filed for bankruptcy and now your iron clad manufacturer warranty is, well… useless.

Sound far fetched? I can’t tell you how people I’ve met in similar situations. Is it typical? No it’s not. The right laminate with a proper installation can look amazing, stand up to high traffic and maintain a new-like appearance years longer than other types of flooring. So how can you be sure your laminate doesn’t just end up being another horror story for me to write? How can you know for sure the laminate you choose will stand the test of time? How can you be sure that once installed your laminate floor will look realistic and not cheap or like plastic?

The purpose of this lens is to help you understand everything you will need to know about laminate flooring so you can be a laminate GURU just like me! Yay!

Laminate Flooring Vs Hardwood

Why spend over $3 a square foot for laminate flooring when you can find 3/4 inch hardwood for as little as $2 a square foot?

Good question and my answer is “durability and subfloor restrictions.”

3/4 inch hardwood can only be installed “above grade,” meaning, you shouldn’t install a 3/4 inch nail down hardwood, over a concrete slab. Why, you ask? Because, you can’t nail into concrete. Well, what if I just glue it down then? That’s not a good idea either and here’s why..

Hardwood is very porous, it breathes the air in your home and seasonally, as the climate changes, the hardwood, under stress, expands and contracts. Think about what happens when you leave a 2 x 4 on your lawn for a few days. Eventually, that 2 x 4 will start to bend.

Hardwood flooring is the same, however nailing it down to a strong subfloor will keep it from warping and bowing. Glue, on the other hand, is not a strong enough bond and when that hardwood starts to bend your new floor is going to be a big disaster. Try using a vacuum on a warped floor! Think I’m kidding, view more about hardwood floors vacuums and the hazards of using them on uneven flooring.

What about engineered wood? Yes, engineered wood was designed specifically to solve this problem and can be glued down over concrete. Engineered wood can be installed, on or above grade (on a concrete sub-floor or on a plywood sub-floor). Ok, what’s the catch? The drawback to using engineered wood is that the wear layer is typically very thin.

Unlike solid 3/4 inch hardwood, engineered wood is made up of several thin layers of wood. These “layers” are the key to stabilizing the wood, preventing it from warping and bowing. The downside however, is that the top layer, the one you walk on, is usually too thin to sand and when the day comes that it wears through, you’ll have to replace your floor. The two areas I see this the most in are foyers and kitchens, with a combination of high traffic and occasionally some dampness, engineered wood in these areas usually only last about 7 to 10 years.

Particle board “the plight of the homeowner.” Pull up your carpet and you will usually find one of four types of subfloor.

1. Concrete is ideal for engineered hardwood, tile or slate
2. Solid Plywood is ideal for naildown hardwood and engineered wood. It’s ok with tile or slate with the addition of a concrete backer board or ditra underlayment.
3. OSB (oriented strand board) Most OSB is ok with nail-down hardwood and engineered wood. It’s also ok with tile or slate with the addition of a concrete backer board or ditra underlayment.
4. Particle Board is not suitable for any hard surface flooring. (Except laminate)

What is particle board? Particle board, basically, is saw dust molded together with glue. The problem with it, is that it’s not very strong. The second problem with it, is that it’s not very moisture resistant. You should never install nail down hardwood over particle board because the particle board isn’t strong enough to stabilize wood. Nor should you install engineered wood over particle board for the same reason.

You shouldn’t install tile over particle board either because the first step to installing tile is spreading thin-set all over the subfloor and because particle board is like a big sponge, it will suck all the water out of the thin-set and eventually turn into mush.

“Is it safe to install a concrete backer board or ditra over particle board?” You could, but you really shouldn’t. When installing ditra, thin-set should be spread on both sides, the subfloor side and the tile side, again allowing the particle board to absorb the thin set. It would be better to install Ultra Flooring. When installing concrete backer board, remember, it also needs to be fastened to the sub-floor, usually with nails or with thin-set. Particle board just isn’t solid enough for hardwood and tile.

Important!

Your subfloor matters!

If you want hardwood or tile, and you have a particle board subfloor, you will first need to “rebuild” your subfloor. Which means, pulling up the particle board and installing real plywood.

If you have particle board and spending the extra money to rebuild you subfloor doesn’t excite you, then laminate is a great solution, because, unlike hardwood and tile, laminate is not glued or nailed to the subfloor and because of that..

Installing laminate flooring over particle board is perfectly fine.

How Durable Is Laminate Flooring?

A question I am frequently asked is.. “If my laminate wears or fades, can I sand and refinish it?”

The answer is “NO”. You can’t refinish laminate because the top layer isn’t real wood, it’s only a digital image of wood. However, you will never need to sand laminate because the top layer doesn’t wear or fade like hardwood can.

In-fact, it’s highly unlikely your laminate flooring will ever wear or fade at all!

Usually, the next question I’m asked is.. “What if someone drags a heavy piece of furniture and leaves a deep scratch in my floor? Because laminate can’t be sanded, I’ll be stuck with a scratched floor, right?”

Yes, it’s true, laminate is not scratch proof, but then again, either is hardwood, but it’s not true that you’ll be stuck with it. The great thing about laminate, is that the design layer is a computer generated image, if you damage a piece, you can just replace it, and because there are no dye lot restrictions with laminate and because laminate doesn’t fade, the new piece will always match the original piece exactly.

To help you understand how wear resistant laminate really is, I’ll need to explain what the Taber Abrasion Test is. The Taber Abrasion Test is a way to measure the wear resistance of various products, including tile, hardwood and laminate flooring. The process involves a small machine, made by Taber Industries, called an Abrader, also referred to as the Rotary Platform Dual Head Tester. This machine uses two revolving abrasive wheels that rotate on the products surface. The point is to find out how many rotations it takes to wear through the first layer. Harder products require more rotations. Test results show that..

Stained Hardwood with no polyurethane can take about 40 rotations

Stained Hardwood with 3 coats polyurethane, around 400-600 rotations

Stained Hardwood with Aluminum Oxide, about 1500 -1800

Basic mid-grade laminate, about 4000

Top of the line laminate, 4500 +

It’s because of this superior wear resistance that most laminates have significant wear warranties ranging anywhere from 15 to 30 years and some even offer lifetime warranties.

In addition to the wear resistance some laminates have another advantage over hardwood; higher-grade laminates now offer moisture and topical water warranties. Water in any form, whether from spills, moisture or high humidity, can ruin your hardwood floor. If you would like a hardwood look in your basement but you’re concerned about the humidity levels, laminate is a great solution. If you would like a hardwood look in your kitchen but you’re worried about spills and cleaning, again, laminate is great solution.

The great thing about laminate flooring is that the design layer is a computer generated image, if you damage a piece, you can just replace it, and because there are no dye lot restrictions with laminate and because laminate doesn’t fade, the new piece will always match the original piece exactly.

Shopping For New Laminate Flooring

Before you begin shopping for laminate it’s important to know the old adage, “you get what you pay for” is true, even with laminate.

In fact, if you find your options are too overwhelming, you may find comfort knowing that laminates are by and large, priced accordingly.

So what makes one laminate better than another anyway?

1. Thickness; Laminate’s are made anywhere from 7MM to 12MM thick. A thicker board will be more durable and when walk on will feel more like real hardwood.

2. Texture; Some laminates, unlike real hardwood, are smooth. Other laminates, just for the sake of having texture, will be embossed with random bumps. The most realistic texture is called Embossed-In-Register. Embossed-In-Register is a technology that matches texture with the design layer, resulting in a much more realistic looking and feeling laminate.

3. Core; A core can be a medium density board (MDF) or a high density board (HDF). HDF is harder and more durable than MDF. HDF is highly resistant to moisture and is safer in kitchens and other high moisture areas where MDF is not. Any laminate stating a moisture warranty is usually HDF.

4. Manufacturing process; High Pressure Laminate (HPL) or Direct Pressure Laminate (DPL). HPL is manufactured at 1400 PSI of pressure while DPL is manufactured at only 300 to 500 PSI. HPL is superior however most industry professionals would argue that for residential use HPL is overkill. Most brand name laminates are made with DPL however, just know, if you’re looking into laminate made with HPL you can expect a higher price tag.

6. Locking system; Believe it or not, when a locking system is designed, it can also be patented and as a result most manufactures use their own designs. I say most because some manufacturers, under license, will use another manufacturers locking system. Some locking systems will perform better overtime, maintaining a seamless transition from one board to the next, while others will break, leaving open gaps in between boards.

7. Appearance; Some laminates, simply, look better and more realistic than others.

Here’s a good example using two different name brand laminates contrasting in both quality and price.

Pergo’s Everyday Collection is a 7MM, DPL board with a random embossed texture and a 15 year warranty. This is considered to be Pergo’s most basic and economical laminate. Last time I checked you could find it on the internet for about $1.24 per square foot at my local flooring supplier.

Now take a look at Bruce’s newest collection, Park Avenue. A 12MM board, made with Bruce’s exclusive Magnum Plus HDF Core, Hi-Definition Print Technology and a 30 year warranty. Additonally Park Avenue is made into individual boards with beveled edges resulting in a much more realistic appearance. Many would consider Park Avenue to be one of the most realistic looking laminate on the market. You should be able to find it for about $3.80 per square foot.

Where should I buy my laminate flooring?

I recommend staying away from flooring outlets that sell discontinued products, also known as flooring liquidators, specializing in flooring products that have been discontinued for one reason or another. I have two problems with kind of purchase;

1. Most of the time products are discontinued because the manufacturer went out of business. If the manufacturer doesn’t exist, you won’t have any recourse should a warranty issue occur.

2. If you miscalculate or need to buy more of the same laminate for whatever reason, there is a chance the next time you go back, it won’t be available. If you can’t find the same board you won’t be able to make repairs and if you decide to add another room you won’t be able to match the original design.

If you’re happy with a mid grade laminate then shopping at the local hardware store is fine, however, if you’re interested in a high end, very realistic board then you will need to do your shopping with a retailer that specializes in flooring. Online retailers can usually offer better prices so if you visit a local retailer, before you make your purchase, be sure to do a price comparison with on online flooring store.

How to measure your home for laminate flooring.

When estimating the approximate cost of materials needed for your flooring project the first thing you will need to do is calculate how many square feet your room is.

In case you forgot, area can be calculated by multiplying the width of a room by the length of the room.

Lengh X Width = Area

To keep things simple the first example I’ll use is a room that is 10 feet wide by 10 feet long.

Floor Plan 1

10 X 10 = 100 square feet

Unfortunately when you install flooring there will be some waste, which means there will be pieces you don’t use, usually end cuts and angle cuts that leave pieces of laminate left over that are too small to use. This is referred to as the waste factor and generally when calculating the material you need you will want to calculate a 10% waste factor.

So for this example

10 X 10 = 100 square feet

and then add 10% waste

which is 100 X 1.1 = 110 square feet

Because laminate is sold by the case and not by the square foot (meaning you can’t buy a single square foot of laminate) the next thing you need to figure out is how many cases of laminate you need. Laminate collections rarely have the same amount of laminate per box, some may have 15 square feet per box while others may have 25 square feet per box. So the first thing you will need to do is find out how many square feet per box the laminate you’re using has.

For this example I’ll be using Armstrong’s American Duet collection which has 18.82 square feet per box. Now all you need to do is divide the total square feet of your room by 18.82

110 / 18.82 = 5.84 cases

Obviously, you can’t buy 5.84 cases of laminate so you’ll have to round up to 6 cases.

Most of the time, however, floor plans are not so basic. The next example is a common L shaped room layout. In this example you’ll need to break the room up into two different areas.

Floor Plan 2

To calculate the area in floor plan #2 all you will need to do is multiply the length and the width of each area and then add the two together.

10 X 20 = 200
10 X 10 = 100
Total = 300 SF

Don’t forget to calculate a 10% waste factor!

300 X 1.1 = 330 SF

Next, you need to know how many boxes of laminate you will need for 330 square feet. Assuming you are using the same kind of laminate as in example #1, with 18.82 square feet per box, you will need to divide 330 square feet by 18.82.

330 / 18.82 = 17.53 Cases

This means that you will need 18 cases.

Now take a look at floor plan #3.

Floor Plan 3

At first calculating the area of this room may seem mind boggling. You can’t exactly multiply length X Width in this room can you? Well, actually you can but first you will need visually break down the room into smaller areas (see below for floor plan #4).

Floor Plan 4

Here you can see how I sectioned off the room into 5 smaller, more manageable areas.

Floor Plan 5

Now you can calculate the total area by multiplying the length and width of each separate area and then adding them all together.

5’5″ X 2 = 11
18 X 7 = 126
10 X 6 = 60
4’5″ X 5 = 23
10 X 8 = 80

Total = 300 SF

Remember to calculate 10% waste

300 X 1.1 = 330 square feet

Note: 5’5″ X 2 isn’t exactly 11, it’s actually 10’10” but when calculating area for materials needed I generally round up to the nearest 1/2 foot. It’s not enough of a variance to make a difference in the amount of cases needed, and just a quick tip.. having extra laminate left over to store away for any future repairs is a good idea anyway.

In the last example I have a common kitchen floor plan. What’s important to know when calculating the materials needed to do a kitchen floor is that the laminate flooring should never be installed under the kitchen cabinets. So when calculating a kitchen’s area, I generally find the total area and then subtract the area of the cabinets.

Floor Plan 6

The first thing I’ll do here is calculate the area.

12 X 20 = 240
8 X 2 = 16

Total = 256 SF

Next I will calculate the total area of all the kitchen cabinets.

Because the standard kitchen cabinet, from the back to the front, is 20 inches I generally just add together the total length of all the kitchen cabinets and then multiply that number by 1 foot, 8 inches, which for this formula will be, (length of cabinet X 1.66 = total area of cabinets.)

5 + 3 + 2.6 + 2 + 1.6 = (14.2 linear feet)

14.2 is the total length of all the kitchen cabinets

14.2 (length) X 1.66 (width) = 23.57 SF

Total = 23.57 square feet

Now that you have the area of the kitchen and the area of the cabinets, subtract the area of the cabinets for the area of the kitchen

256 – 23.57 = 232.43 SF

So in this last floor plan you will need to buy enough laminate to cover 232.43 square feet. Again, using the same laminate in the last two examples, (Armstrong’s American Duet collection which has 18.82 square feet per box), just divide 232.43 by 18.82 = 12.35 cases.

Which means you will need to buy 13 cases of laminate.

Laminate Flooring Cost

Estimating how much your laminate flooring will cost.

If you’re a do-it-yourselfer, determining how much your new floor is going to cost is simply a matter of knowing what materials you need and how much of them you will need to buy. Oh, and don’t forget, you may need to invest in some tools.

Here is a list of tools, commonly used to install laminate flooring. Most brand name laminate manufacturers provide installation instructions written specifically for their brand of laminate, however while most recommend the same tools, it’s smart to check before you start. Some of the more expensive tools you may be able to rent from your local hardware store.

Laminate Flooring Tool List

• 10″-12″ Sliding compound saw $400 to $500
• Table Saw $500 to $600
• Jigsaw $50 to $150
• Pull bar $10
• Combination or speed square $10
• Plastic putty knife $4
• Dust mask $5
• Disposable rubber gloves $3
• Masking Tape $5
• Hammer $10
• Tapping block $10
• Utility Knife $10
• Safety goggles $3
• Measuring tape $20
• Knee Pads $15
• Router (w/bits) $100
• Suction cups $20
• Channel lock pliers $12
• Wood chisel $15
• Foxtail brush $3
• 10′ straight edge $100

The first thing you will need to know is your total square feet. Once you know your square feet you can determine your greatest expense; the laminate itself, so first, you will need to know how many cases of laminate you will need. If you haven’t already, it’s a good idea to go back and read the previous section titled “how to measure your home for laminate flooring.”

Other materials you will need are, underlayment (padding) quarter round and any transition pieces for doorways.

On the page titled “how to measure for laminate flooring,” in the last floor plan, we already know the total area is 256 square feet and that we will need 17 cases of laminate. Assume the price per case of laminate is $54.75

17 cases X $54.75 = $930.75

If the laminate your installing doesn’t have pre-attached underlayment, the next you will need to determine the cost of underlayment that you will need to buy separately. Generally, underlayment comes in rolls of 100 square feet at an average cost of $50 per roll. So in this example, with 256 square feet, you will need to buy 3 rolls of underlayment.

3 rolls X $50 = $150

The amount of 1/4 round (shoe molding) is simply a matter of calculating the total linear feet around the perimeter of the room where the laminate meets the wall or in this example, walls and cabinets. Which in this case is about 76 linear feet.

Plain white shoe molding sells for around ¢.50 per linear foot.

0.50 X 76 linear feet = $38

How easy is it to install laminate flooring?

That depends on a few factors. If the room you are installing laminate in is empty and the old flooring is already pulled out and the room is basically square in shape then installing laminate flooring can be somewhat simple for a person who is somewhat experienced with do-it-yourself projects.

What??? Yes, every situation is different and answering that question is not easy.

There are many factors to consider when installing laminate flooring.. or really any kind of flooring.

• How much furniture will you need to move?
• Will you need to remove the old flooring?
• Do you have all the tools necessary?
• Will you need to cut the flooring at difficult angles?
• Is you subfloor level? Will you need to make subfloor repairs?

I think one question most people never honestly ask themselves is..

” Do I have the commitment to see this project through to the end?”

It may seem silly but you would be surprised by how many do-it-yourself laminate projects I’ve seen that have only reached about 90% completion.

When most people think about installation laminate they just think, OK so I’ll click a few boards together.. no problem! Most people don’t really think about it and fail to appreciate the detail work..

• Cutting under the door jams.
• cutting and installing 1/4 round trim.
• Fitting the laminate boards around air vents.
• installing with proper expansion joints between the floor and the walls.

Yes anyone can install laminate but not everyone will have the patience and skills to make it look professional.

Now don’t get me wrong.. I’m not trying to discourage you.

I just hate to see people jump into a remodeling project, just to find themselves over-their-heads, which usually ends in sloppy work and a lot of frustration. Paying a little more to have your floors installed professionally is definitely worth it, especially if you’re not sure if you can do it professionally yourself. Remember.. this is your home were talking about!

If you’re thinking about installing laminate but your still not sure about it I urge you to check out all the laminate instructional videos on you tube. Go to you tube and search “install laminate flooring.” Most laminate manufacturers make their own videos which will help you decide if it’s right for you.

If you really have the desire and you do the proper research, you understand everything involved and you’re committed to doing a great job I think you can do it.. after all there are harder flooring products to install than laminate :- )

Below I’ve included a great “how-to” video…

Basic Electrical Wiring

Electrical wiring can be one of those home improvement jobs and DIY projects that doesn’t get performed by a lot of homeowners. This is probably because of the fact that electricity is so dangerous. But by respecting electricity and taking the basic safety precautions you can easily do your own basic electrical wiring yourself. All you need are a few basic tools, although buying the best electrician’s tools will save you time, money and frustration in the end. Use this guide to understanding the basics of electrical wiring to wire for outlets, switches and lighting fixtures of all kinds.

Pulling Wire

One common misconception with pulling wire is that is can be done by yourself. The fact of the matter is, when wiring in an existing home, pulling wire yourself just doesn’t work. Crimps and kinks in the wire can easily happen. With a helping hand guiding your wire as you pull, the wiring in an existing structure will go smoothly.

Whether it’s for an outlet, switch or light fixture, pulling wire needs to be done without damaging the wire itself. Fish tape is a common tool that electricians use to pull wire through existing walls and cavities without damaging the wire. Furthermore, if you’re working at all with cable or ethernet wires and cables, the Fluke Intellitone Pro 200 is a great tool to have.

Stripping the Wire

More often than not, if you’re wiring for the first time, you’re probably going to cut it short. It’s always a good idea to pull a little extra wire for outlets, lighting fixtures and the like when you’re pulling wires from the service panel to the circuit area. This way, you’ll be sure to get the most wire for your project. Remember, more wire you can always cut off; less wire and you’re going to need a whole new line.

Strip the wire around outlets and lights from its protective sheath about 7-10 inches. A good reference is to use your longest finger to your wrist for the proper amount of wire to strip. Now the wiring can be exposed and stripped as needed.

Outlets and other lighting fixtures typically need 1-2 inches of exposed copper or aluminum to get the job done safely. Too much exposed wiring and you could have an electrical jump or short circuit.

Wiring Fixtures

Once wires have been stripped to the proper length, it’s best to wire them according to the manufacturers specifications. Average and typical wiring for outlets usually consists of inserting a bare and straight copper wire into the back of the switch or outlet. This locks the wire in place preventing the need for a screw or wire nut.

Some lighting fixtures need to be screw tightened (Ryobi tools are great for this!). These wires should be wrapped around the screw in the same direction as it turns (to the right). That way, when the wire is tightened, it doesn’t back out from the screw before you get it snug.

How To Know When to Call Electrician

Know The Signs

Sometimes it is extremely difficult to know when to call an electrician. Likewise, it can also be difficult to realize when you actually have an electrical problem. The following information will help you identify the signs of knowing when you should call a professional electrician and avoid any DIY fixes or advice for buying a new home.

Flickering Lights Have Many Causes

Your lights may be flickering. Are all the lights in the house flickering or just one lamp or one room? If one lamp is flickering, see if tightening the bulb stops the flickering. If the lamp still flickers, the problem may be in the lamp wiring or the wall outlet. If several lights are flickering, a complete circuit may be involved. The flickering of all the lights in the house indicates that the problem is probably in the main breaker box or the service entrance to the house.

Unlicensed Electrical Work Can Result in Unpaid Fire Insurance Claims

Unless you have extensive electrical knowledge, these problems call for a licensed electrician. In some cases, insurance companies refuse to pay fire claims if it can be established that the probable cause was electrical work performed by unlicensed contractors. In many localities it is illegal to perform electrical work without a permit.

Dimming Lights May Require Breaker Box Update

If your lights dim considerably when a major appliance comes on, the breaker box in your home may be too small. In older houses, it is quite likely that the electrical service has not been updated to accommodate the many electrical appliances found in modern homes. If circuit breakers frequently require resetting, it is quite likely the electrical service is inadequate.

Aluminum Wiring Without Proper Fittings Can Be Dangerous

Some older homes have aluminum wiring. Being less expensive than copper, aluminum wiring was used in the 1970s in about 2 million houses and mobile homes. If there is a possibility that your older home could have aluminum wiring, it may need to be checked and updated with switches, outlets and fittings that are designed to allow aluminum wiring to be used safely. Detection of a hot switch or outlet calls for immediate action. Oxidation or rust of the wire in the numerous connections can cause overheating and fire.

A Non-working Outlet Can Be Caused by a Wall Switch

If half or all of a wall outlet has no power, check for a wall switch that may be controlling the outlet. It there is no switch, there is a problem in the connection or circuit.

Loose Breaker Box Connections are Fire Hazard

When having electrical repair performed, all the connections in the breaker box should be checked for tightness. A loose connection can cause overheating and fire.

If your electrical contractor has a website or Facebook page, you should use this as a source of information about maintaining a home that is safe electrically. The sites can also keep you informed about available new electrical equipment like the best stud finder that can also be used to find wires in your walls. Knowledgeable electrical contractors find the internet a remarkably effective means to communicate with their customers.

If you have not found the need to use the services of a licensed electrician, it would be an excellent idea to establish a relationship with one. They would be happy to provide an electrical safety-inspection of your home. The reward would be the peace of mind that comes from the knowledge that you have done everything possible to protect your home and family.

DIY Tile Basement Flooring Instructions

Tiling a basement floor is something that most any homeowner can handle provided you got a couple tools to do the job and enough time to get it done right. If you don’t then you can certainly contact a professional to get it done for you. Having tile floors in the basements is actually a superb flooring option as you won’t have to deal with all the water issues that you would with other types of flooring materials like carpet or laminate basement flooring because tile is waterproof. Now the tile I’m speaking of in this case pertains to ceramic, porcelain or stone tile

What To Look At First For Tiled Basement Flooring:

One of the first things you need to look at when tiling a basement floor is the actual condition of the floor itself. Is it clean and basically level? Does it have cracks or holes that will need to be taken care of first? Do you have any moisture issues that you’ll need to deal with first through some waterproofing measures? Tile can be a fickle fiend when trying to install and maintain it on an unlevel, unsightly floor. You absolutely need a clean, mostly level floor to install tile on in the basement or it will eventually to cracking and grout problems.

To seal or not to seal, that’s the next question. Depending on which “expert” you talk to, there are definitely two differing opinions with whether you should seal the basement floor before tiling it. Some will tell you that it’s needed to protect the tiles and grout from moisture related problems while others argue that’s what the latex added thinset is for and that tile is already waterproof. Personally, I’d stay away from sealing it if you are going to install tile on it. But you should always check with the manufacturer first for a final ruling depending on the type of tile you select and the warranty you are expecting.

Basement Floor Tile Selection:

When it comes to finding the right tiles for basement floors, there’s really no wrong selection to make, just depends on what look you are going for and how much time you have to do the job. The first thing to do would be to go to a tile store so you can actually get a good visual of the selection they have and actual touch and feel it. Remember that you’ll likely walk barefoot across it at one time or another. You can mix and match them to come up with basically any pattern that you feel “fits” the situation.

One suggestion that I can give on your tile selection is this, larger floor tiles work better. If this is your first tiling job, try to stick to at minimum the 8”x8” squares, preferably the 12”x12” or 14”x14”. They do come larger than that, all the way to 24” squares, but those are a little bulky to work with starting out.

Why You Need A Grid Layout:

There’s no better solution to laying your ceramic tile basement floor than to start by popping chalk lines into a grid styled layout. Why? For starters, a grid styled layout allows you to see precisely where each tile is going to be and where you’ll have to make your cuts. This is especially true on large basement floors. In addition, it ensures that the installation of a ceramic tile basement floor is consistently square. I can’t stress enough the importance of maintaining accurate measurements throughout the layout process.

Measuring Basement Tiles for Chalk Lines:

One thing to note, this works for basically any floors, not just basements. To gain an accurate measurement, you actually need to have the tiles in hand at this point. Do a quick sort and make sure that they are all roughly the same size. Then pick 3 of them and lay them out linearly like the picture shown. Be sure to put your spacers in place between the tiles now so that you’ll have the gout lines represented.

Now what you do is measure from the outer edge of the first tile to the inner edge of the third tile, making sure to include the grout joints in your measurement. This is denoted in the “red” space on the image. Take note of this measurement as that is what you are going to be using to pop the chalk lines on the basement floor.

Marking Basement Floor Chalk Lines:

After you’ve got the floor all cleaned and dust free (you might need to sweep and vacuum it a few times) you are ready to start setting the chalk lines. These are nothing more than guidelines to keep your tile installation all “square”. There’s two ways you can go about this and both look good.

The first way is to work from the center of the room out to the exterior walls. First, you simply find the center of the room by snapping chalk lines from the middle of opposing walls. What you end up with at the intersection of the two lines is the “center” of the room. From there you work both left and right snapping chalk lines that will keep your tiles square throughout the installation. You may even want to make the entire grid using both horizontal and vertical chalk lines to ensure even spacing throughout. Just remember to add in the extra space for the spacers that you’ll remove and grout later. This will create a nice evenly spaced pattern throughout the room starting from the center of it. The only downfall to this method is that if you are new to tiling, you tend to end up with a lot of cuts around the edges to fill in.

The second method is a little different as you start from a corner instead of the center. Find the longest and straightest wall in your basement and start in that corner. Typically, these are an exterior wall, but if you have an interior load bearing wall it could be that as well. Next, you simply measure and mark off the floor from one end of the wall. When done, repeat the same process on the other end of the wall with the same measurement. Pop a chalk line between the two marks. Then repeat these same steps for the walls on the opposite sides. Use a square and make sure everything is “in square” by testing a few of the intersecting chalk lines. If they aren’t, you’ll need to adjust and re-pop the lines. This is an easier installation for the first timer’s. The only downfall with this method is that you’ll likely end up with one or two walls having cut tiles along the edges. Still, it’s all square and will look good.

Special Note Before Installing Ceramic Basement Tile:

For this installation, we are going to assume using the second method listed above. You are going to want to start your ceramic basement tile installation in the corner you first started popping the two original chalk lines. To make this smooth and easy, you are going to want to start your first grout joint to the wall, don’t butt the tile directly on the wall. If you don’t have a 4-foot level, you are going to need one. This will help you keep your tiles straight throughout the installation. You will insert spacers on each corner of the tile joints. Spacers come in different sizes but typical spacer size is between 1/4” to 5/16” wide. If you are using the larger tiles I find it best to keep about a 1/4” spacer between the tiles. It’s much more important to keep the ceramic tiles properly aligned to your chalk lines within the grid versus keeping the grout lines at a consistent width.

How To Tile A Basement Floor:

The first thing you are going to need is a large 5 gallon bucket. If you don’t have one you can usually pick them up from a hardware store for a couple bucks. You’re going to use this bucket to mix up the thinset with a latex additive. Not all thinsets are the same so make sure you follow the manufacturer’s instructions. You’ll know when you are done mixing when the thinset has the consistency of mom’s morning oatmeal. Never had it? You should, great way to start the day. 😉

Next, start in the corner we noted above and using a 1/4 inch notched trowel apply the thinset to the first grid squares on the basement floor. You only want to work one grid square at a time to maintain consistency so be sure to only cover that much. Then you’ll want to apply a small amount of thinset to the back of the ceramic tile and place it in the desired location. To really set it, just wiggle it back and forth a couple of times pressing firmly to ensure that it bonds with the thinset you already laid on the floor. Set your spacers and move on to the next tile.

Continue installing the tiles checking to make sure that you are still “square” and “in-grid” as you go working your way down or across to the opposite wall. You can check out the picture I took from CSG Renovation basement. As you get closer to the edge of the surrounding walls, you will need to cut the basement tiles to the appropriate size using either a tile cutter or wet saw.

Grouting a Tiled Basement Floor:

After the tile basement flooring has set up over a 24 hour period you can then grout the tile. The first thing you are going to need to do is to remove all the spacers. Have a pair of pliers handy as some of them maybe a little tough to break loose. Once you’ve got all the spacers up, it’s time to move on to a little more cleanup and preparing the grout. You are going to need a couple 5 gallon buckets here, a couple of sponges and a grout float to do it right.

Before you start grouting a tiled basement floor, you need to clean the joints and the surface of basement tile thoroughly. You’re trying to remove all the dirt and dust that may have settled as well as any remaining dried thinset mortar. Now you need that clean 5 gallon bucket again to mix your grout. Just follow the instructions for the grout mix you got. This time you want to make it a little smoother, something along the consistency lines of peanut butter versus oatmeal. This will allow the grout to be worked and spread much easier. Just go back to your starting point and drop a fairly big glob of grout down. Take your grout float and angling it slightly, push and pull the grout to you working it in between the tiles. Yes you will get grout on the tiles as well but you’ll clean that up in a bit.

Take your time and only grout a small area of the basement floor at a time. After a while you’ll get more comfortable with the process and be able to do larger sections. If you have grout left over on the floor, use a clean grout float to pick up the excess. Just be sure to not dig into the grouted areas when you’re doing it. It’ll take about 15 minutes or so for the grout to set up, then you can move to the next portion of the project where you’ve got to clean up your mess.

With a clean bucket of water, go back to your starting point. Take one of your sponges and get it damp. On this part you are going to want to work your sponge on the tile at an angle to the grout lines. You will cross the grout lines, but don’t work directly on them. Pull the sponge back towards you to wipe up the filmy grout off the tiles. Just don’t dig into the grout lines. Flip the sponge over and repeat. It’s important at this step to rinse the sponge clean, you are trying to get the excess grout up and not spread it around. You are going to repeat this process over the entire basement floor. During this, your water may become quite dirty. In an effort to keep it clean, take the time and refresh the water.

Now you’ve just finished tiling a basement floor. Before you get all giddy and start rushing to put everything in your new basement, just allow 24 hours for the grout to really set and dry.

If after the 24 hours there still seems to be a little “film” on your beautiful ceramic tiles, use a quick mixture of 1 cup of white vinegar per gallon of mop water and mop the floor thoroughly. Be sure to do a secondary mopping with clean water after that.

A Garden Gazebo Adds to Your Garden Decor

There is nothing like sitting outdoors enjoying the beauty of your garden and backyard space. By adding a garden gazebo to the space, you essentially create an exterior room in that garden space. Garden gazebos provide intimacy and protection from the weather, while adding beauty to your garden décor. Just as you would sit in an indoor sunroom or sitting room looking out, a garden gazebo offers a space directly in the outdoors that functions as if it’s a separate room that is lucky enough to be surrounded by your garden.

When it comes to choosing a gazebo for garden spaces, there are plenty of models to choose from. Depending on how large you are looking for your garden gazebo to be, what type of décor you are interesting in evoking, and what your budget is, you can find garden gazebos for sale to meet just about any need.

Here are a few options to choose from:

Materials:

Wooden garden gazebo

Of all garden gazebo designs, those made of wood blend in the most naturally with your lawn and garden décor due to the natural elements of the wood. Wooden garden gazebos can be constructed from wood throughout the whole structure, or they can have wood support posts with a canvas gazebo canopy top, or one made from another flexible material. Most wood garden gazebos are made from cedar.

Metal garden gazebo

There are a wide variety of metal garden gazebos to choose from and each adds an interesting decorative element all its own to your outdoor space. Among metal garden gazebos, you can choose from a cast iron or wrought iron garden gazebo, a steel garden gazebo, or an aluminum garden gazebo. Wrought iron or metal garden gazebos are stronger and more durable than aluminum models and are geared for more permanent use than aluminum ones. They are also the best gazebo for winter & windy weather. They one drawback is you need to maintain them or they’ll rust.

Garden gazebo canopy

Whether you choose to go with a wood, metal, iron, or aluminum gazebo frame, you can select a garden gazebo canopy from among different materials, styles, colors and designs. Most garden gazebo canopies are made from canvas with a waterproof sealant on them or a heavy duty vinyl material.  Depending on the type of garden gazebo you choose and the weather conditions where you live, you will sometimes find that the garden gazebo canopy needs to be replaced long before the actual structure of the gazebo is ready for the trash.

This is especially common if you buy a cheap garden gazebo, although it can happen to any type of outdoor garden gazebo that is subjected to high winds, extreme weather conditions, or excessive use or abuse. To replace the canopy alone, you can try to contact the manufacturer directly or find a company that sells garden gazebo parts to see if they have a canopy that will fit the particular model that you own. In most cases, replacing the garden gazebo canopy is a fairly simple process.

Sizes:

10×10 garden gazebo

The most popular size for a garden gazebo is 10 feet by 10 feet square. Of course, if you don’t have much room in your backyard or garden, you can find some small garden gazebos to fit your smaller space and there are also some that are larger as well. Some of the larger, more decorative models of garden gazebos come in other shapes or have angled edges to add interest to the design.

 

Designs:

There are some garden gazebos that offer a traditional feel to your outdoor space while others have a more modern, contemporary feel. There are garden gazebos that make you feel like you’re sitting in an outdoor “room”, while others feel more like a canopy tent. If insects are a problem in your area, you can even get a screened gazebo that includes netted sides that drop down to keep the bugs out. When you don’t need the protection of the bug or mosquito netting, you can tie the screened sides back along the gazebo posts to open up the area under the gazebo.

No matter what type of garden gazebo you choose, having an outdoor gazebo in your garden provides a place to get away and enjoy the beauty of your backyard or garden, while being protected from the sun, rain or wind. Garden gazebos are a great place to entertain company or to get away from it all with a good book, or even to take a nap. They are also the perfect location for your outdoor dining furniture so you can enjoy a meal out of the sun or without worrying about things falling off the trees into your food.

A garden gazebo is also the perfect place to add a few extra decorative outdoor elements, like a windchime that gently blows in the breeze or a string of solar lights to add a festive atmosphere when the sun goes down. No matter what size, style or design of garden gazebo you choose, placing an outdoor garden gazebo in your backyard adds an unmatched element of charm.

How to safe guard yourself from unlawful circumstances between you and your landlord.

Well I must say first of all that I have always loved to move. I’m just one of those odd people. However, I just moved and it has been a Hellish experience. There have been numerous things but the highlights are: the realty company has refused to send someone to fix my air conditioner-it gets up to 100 degrees in here; I am also renting another property from them and they have tried to make me turn in my keys while making me pay the rent for three more months.

This means that they would be getting money from me for two houses (one that I would not have access to) and a new tenant.

And finally, after two weeks of living here I received a call saying that they sold this house and that I have to move again and that if I decide to move to somewhere that is not under them that I will lose my deposit. Wow!

A San Fransisco landlord has been in the media lately for being sued. He has tried shutting off utilities, threatening, and intimidating the current tenants so that they will move and he can raise the price for new tenants.

The renting industry is getting vicious all over the nation-they have become the new faulty “car salesman”. Here are some things that you as a tenant should be familiar with to safeguard yourself.

Deposits

There is a legal maximum amount that a landlord can charge you for a deposit:do research to make sure that you are not being overcharged. Make a list of every scratch and crack in the apartment or house you are about to rent; if you do not (even if the landlord knows the problem was there before you moved there) they can say you did it and keep your deposit.

Your landlord cannot withhold your deposit for things such as nail holes; they can however, for things such as big holes in the walls or broken windows that were not there prior to you moving in.

Leases

Many times a landlord will tell you things that are not in your lease to get you to move in. Make sure that you get this in writing-and always keep a copy of your lease and written statements from the landlord.

You can get out of your lease if you have proof that your landlord has violated your renter’s rights or the lease.

It is imperative to read your lease thoroughly before signing it; sometimes there are some illegal clauses within the lease agreement such as :

• statements that you will give up your right to defend yourself in court against the landlord.
• statement that the landlord can enter your house at any time.
• limitations to responsibilities that a landlord is legally responsible for.
• statement that if you and your landlord have to go to court that you will pay their court fees.
• statement that the landlord has the right to keep your belongings if you go move or get evicted.

Rent

Most states do not have rent control laws. If you are about to renew a lease, the owner can increase the amount of rent to any price (even if it is outrageous).

Landlords

If your landlord refuses to repair something you should write a letter to them (and keep a copy) with the date, your name,problem,if the problem is a threat to your health or safety, and you can also legally add that if the repairs aren’t done in a week’s time that you will: take legal action, make repairs yourself, terminate your lease, or request a written explanation as to why the repairs are delayed or refused. Property solutions in Hua Hin has more about this on their website. And remember, these are for legitimate repairs, not for something like Christmas lights installation or even lawn care unless it is specifically in your lease.

Your landlord can only enter your home for reasons specified in your lease and with notice.

Your landlord cannot harass you (such as the San Francisco landlord) or threaten you or turn off your utilities.

If you are evicted, the landlord must allow you to get your belongings if not they can be convicted of “conversion” which is a term basically for theft.-This also means that they cannot damage your personal belongings.-This also includes the fact that they cannot keep your personal belongings for past rent that is due.They cannot sell your property for past rent either. They can hold your property as collateral if it is in the lease. (This is a crime).

Evictions

The landlord can only legally evict you in the following circumstances:

• For breaking your lease.
• For not paying due rent.
• If you are committing crimes within the property or destroy property.
• If you are renting on a month to month basis and your month is up.

I know this sounds like a lot but you should know your rights and state laws to keep yourself safely within your home. You should always keep rental agreements and written notices in case a situation comes up or you must go to court.

Vinyl Fencing Can be the Perfect Choice for Some Areas

“Vinyl” seems like an odd choice for fencing, since for many of us it’s nothing more than an occasional decorating tool (think wallpaper) or outdated musical phenomenon (45’s anyone?), or the vinyl siding on the neighbor’s house. While it’s easy to think that vinyl’s uses are limited outdoors, the truth has greatly changed over time.

Vinyl fencing is incredibly popular, both for its solid and durable construction, it’s relatively low cost of production, and the  large variety of its’ practical uses.

A good vinyl fence really isn’t that hard to come by. With hundreds of major companies out there producing or supplying PVC fencing, it’s not difficult to source a fence that will compliment your property. From privacy fences to protective pool fencing, vinyl fences are available to fit almost any set of requirements, and generally at a cost that isn’t damaging to the redecorating or construction budget.

Vinyl fence installation can range from relatively straight forward and  simple to multi-leveled and tricky. It all depends on the type of installation, and the type of fencing required. If you need a simple perimeter fence, installing vinyl fencing is as simple as any other fencing method. Simply dig your supportive post holes and take care of it yourself. In other situations, you could need anything from a shovel to a bulldozer to get your fence properly installed. Remember, that all depends on the setting — in other words, installing a vinyl fence is no more difficult than any other type of fencing.

So how durable are vinyl fence panels? It’s easy to think that PVC — a substance that’s not renowned for super-heavy construction — won’t hold up to repeated winds or impacts. Again, the opposite is true. Many vinyl fences are tested in winds of up to 120mph, and can easily and consistently hold their ground and stay steady. Remember, these are winds in excess of 120mph — the type of wind that routinely damages buildings and causes mayhem — and properly anchored fences are able to withstand it.

So is a vinyl fence perfect for your property?  It really depends on your requirements. While there are several major fencing materials out there to pick from, vinyl offers the greatest mix of high quality presentation, commendable strength and durability, and simplicity of installation. Remember, you’re investing in your home, and anything short of the best often isn’t good enough.

Make an informed decision and invest in fencing that keeps your home private, your yard secure, and your property presentable.

To a lot of people, fencing is all about appearances. Sure, there’s protection and security, but the primary focus is always on presentation and aesthetics. That’s why cedar fences and standard pickets have always proved so popular — people know how they look, appreciate their design virtues, and are happy to go with what’s consistent. But for some people, there’s more on stake than that. They need a fence that’s not going to crack, that’s not going to sag, and isn’t going to age.

For every one of them, vinyl fencing is the answer. Offering the best combination of security, simplicity and durability, vinyl fencing is quickly becoming one of the most popular fencing options around. It’s for good reason too. While the initial investment is slightly larger than for cedar fencing, other woods or even some simple brick fences, vinyl fencing doesn’t age, doesn’t break, and is capable of withstanding winds of over 120mph. That’s twice the driving speed limit, blowing straight at a vinyl fence, and it’s not budging an inch.

It’s easy to undersell vinyl fencing’s looks, mainly because it’s well known for its durability and simplicity. Simply speaking, while vinyl fencing isn’t known for its looks, it’s certainly not an ugly fencing option. With hundreds of different styles and colors available, you’re free to customize and decorate your vinyl fencing as you wish, and with such incredible versatility, it’s highly unlikely that your vinyl fencing will age anywhere near as quickly as wooden alternatives.

Simply put, when you need consistency and simplicity, vinyl picket fences are the way to go. Or, if you’re prefer another style, a vinyl privacy fence will no doubt catch your eye.

Finally, vinyl fencing prices are incredibly affordable, especially if put in a long-term view. Sure, it’s more of an initial investment than other fencing materials, but viewing its cost like this only is deceiving and inaccurate. Vinyl fencing is more expensive up front, but in terms of long-term value, it’s a much better deal than other fencing types. Why?

With wooden fencing, you’re replacing parts every few years, constantly refitting sunk fence posts, and spending a fortune on repairs. Metal fencing will rust over time and also needs to be maintained. With vinyl fencing, you’re spending a little more to get a simple installation and fencing that doesn’t require your constant attention.

So if you want a fencing material that’s cheap for the long haul, rugged and durable, and incredibly simple to install, make vinyl fencing your first choice.

Vinyl siding is a type of siding product that is created from plastic and used on the very outermost layer of a home’s walls. Siding protects your home from the weather as well as keeping insects and other pests out so you must give careful consideration to the type of siding you will use. Vinyl siding has been a popular choice in recent years for several reasons but it also has it’s disadvantages. You will need to compare both to know if vinyl siding is the right choice for your home.

The biggest advantage of vinyl siding for most homeowners is that it doesn’t need the maintenance that many other types of siding need. The color is an intrinsic part of the finished product so it will never need to be painted. It also is fairly inexpensive when compared to custom painting every few years or even brick facades.

While brick is a great option for very long term, most people can’t afford the extensive upfront costs when comparing brick vs. vinyl siding.

A few things to be aware of about vinyl is that vinyl siding will fade with time from the effects of the sun and weather but this takes a long time and doesn’t affect the protection the siding offers. Sometimes over the course of many years, the siding will get a chalky substance on it. The best thing to do in this situation is to wash it down with a soft bristle brush and some vinyl siding cleaner. This can really help extend the life of your vinyl siding over the years. This is also true if you have vinyl gutters. or vinyl fencing.

Some products claim that you can just spray the soap on and hose it off…but I’ve found that this just usually leaves streaks and dirty areas. Also if your siding is on a side of your home that gets little sunlight…but lots of moisture, you may have problems with black mold and mildew removal. If you’re going to clean your vinyl siding, do it right. Get a ladder, some planking, soft bristle brushes and sponges and spend time on it. You’ll be rewarded if you take the proper time upfront.

 

One other caution about siding is that in very cold weather, vinyl siding can become quite brittle. It snaps and cracks very easily when its really cold, so avoid running into it with a snowblower, car, or the kids sleds. If you do happen to snap off a chunk of the siding, you may be best advised to wait until Spring or Summer to replace it. That way you’ll get a better fit for the new piece as the vinyl will be at a proper temperature and able to take its correct shape and flexibility.

For those who are eco conscious, vinyl siding takes less energy to produce and manufacture than some other forms of siding however it is not very recyclable. Only scraps or leftover unused product can be recycled at this point in time. Another disadvantage to vinyl siding is the fact that it will release toxins when burned so if in the unlikely event of a house fire, the poisonous fumes could make a fatality or serious injury more apt to occur.

I’ve found that there are many local contractors in most areas that can accommodate vinyl siding installations. However, I’ve found that generally the ones that specialize in only doing siding and windows usually do the best job. This is because they work with many different manufacturers of siding and know how to work with each different type and style correctly. A great way to find a reliable contractor is to ask your friends and family about who they have used for their siding upgrades, this is how I found my siding contractor in Marietta or perhaps using an online contractor search like Angie’s List.

You can also do more research to learn more about additional advantages and disadvantages of vinyl siding, by doing a more extensive search online. Home sites, construction websites and siding manufacturer sites will have a lot of detailed information for you including vinyl siding costs and other pricing per square feet estimates based on style and quality.

5 Tips on How to Prevent Rust

Rust can be more than just a cosmetic problem and cause serious damage and it is important to take some steps to prevent rust from ever affecting your possessions.

Rust can form on any metallic surface and it can affect everything from your car and boat to your screws and bolts or the different types of metal roofing. The distinctive powdery or flaky orange mark that appears on metallic objects indicating rust can be the harbinger of severe corrosion. Rust is the result of oxidation that happens when moisture and oxygen come into contact near metal objects.

Fe2O3.nH2O is the chemical combination of rust and while the scientific term means little or nothing to most of us, we all recognize rust when we see it. The corrosion that comes with rusting can be fast or slow depending on the environment. While it technically possible to reduce or reverse corrosion, it is a far better idea to prevent rust from forming in the first place.

Remember that rust is a combination of dampness and air and so store your tools or other metal possessions in a clean place. This can mean air-tight or well-ventilated depending on the object in question. But the idea is to make sure that musty air does not build up around your car, boat or your golf clubs. Any of these ones affected by rust can lose its structural stability and essentially become at a minimum unsafe and at worst unusable.

Moisture is the other big component of rust. So make it a point to clean your things after they have had any water exposure. So, whether it is your car, a set of tools or steel building home kits, you need to rinse and dry to make sure that water does not adhere for long to the surface. The underside of a car is particularly vulnerable to rust and so you should make it a point to address this area also by spraying your undercarriage and clearing away the dirt and dust collected there. Air drying your car and boat on nice sunny days can help in avoiding rust.

To prevent rust from forming, you should remember that moisture from your palms can get onto tools also and so as a matter of routine you should clean all things that you handle before putting them away for storage. This may be applicable in the case of guns where you may not see any visible evidence of moisture but the dampness from your hands is likely to have left a residue. So, wipe such objects down before putting them away.

Other than these basic precautions, you can also use some chemical solvents available in stores to prevent rust. You can use a coating of zinc though a process called galvanizing to protect the body of your car. This latter process will have to be done at a body shop. Another technique used to fight rust is called blueing and it involves rubbing oil that will help with water displacement, onto blued steel. Waxing cars or painting some surfaces also serves the same purpose in that these items work as a shield against water build-up on the metallic surface.

You can also use a dehumidifier in a tool shed or garage if you are concerned about the amount of humidity in the air. This will serve the purpose it is meant to and reduce the risk of rust.

These above mentioned steps can be very helpful if you want to prevent rust. If despite these efforts, you see any sign of rust you should act promptly to clean and treat the affected surface. As mentioned earlier rust is not just something that looks unappealing it actually has implications for safety and health and so you should not ignore a rusted pipe or a rusted railing. Even if the affected area appears small, that piece of metal is no longer structurally reliable and you should fix it at the earliest possible.

Don’t Panic Not all Black Mold is Toxic

Black mold often connotes the “Black Plague.” If you find something you think is black mold, don’t panic, as not all discoloration is mold and not all black molds are toxic. In fact, humans and pets often cause some of the spots that look like black mold.

If people lean their heads against a wall repeatedly, or pets rest in the same spot against a wall, the oils from hair and fur can cling to the wall.

The oil will collect dust from the air, and the patterns created often look like mold.

If you see something that appears to be mold, relax and investigate the area, because you may be panicking for no reason.

At the same time, learning to look for mold will also alert you to finding toxic mold.

Toxic mold must be removed as it can cause several health problems in people and pets. Read on to learn more!

What Is Mold Anyways?

Often, we hear the words mold and mildew used in sync. Cleaning products especially brag about their ability to remove mold and mildew. But what exactly is mildew anyways and how does it relate to mold?

If you do any research, you may discover that the information out there tends to contradict itself.

There are generally two schools of thought concerning mold and mildew: 1) mold and mildew are the same or 2) mold and mildew are not the same.

Let’s break it down.

Mold is what we term microscopic fungi that grow in long, branching filaments and that are multicellular (these filaments are called hyphae incidentally).

There are thousands of species of mold and mold derives its energy from the organic matter in which it lives.

Mold produces mold spores. Most spores remain airborne indefinitely and can resist extreme temperatures and pressures.

Molds are only visible to the naked eye when colonies grow.

Mildew is actually a general term for growth produced by mold fungi; different fungi produce different types of mildew.

Mildew appears in a variety of forms to include spores that look like sugar, spots and discolorations on leaves as well as downy patches.

There are two main types of mildew: powdery and downy.

Powdery mildew appears as small white or gray patches and is commonly found on flowers.

Powdery mildew is not fatal though it may impair photosynthesis. Downy mildew varies in appearance as well and may look like yellow or tan, angular or blotchy spots on leaves or white fuzz that engulfs the organic material it grows on.

Downy mildew commonly forms on grapes, cucumbers, potatoes and even flowers.

Mildew will grow in an environment that is damp with poor air circulation.

Thus, to help prevent the occurrence of mildew on plants or crops, avoid crowded plantings, try to grow mildew-resistant varieties and don’t grow varieties susceptible to mildew in the shade.

In sum, it is my opinion that the discolored growth in your shower or tub is not mildew; rather, it is mold.

So why the discrepancy?

Mildew sounds less severe than mold. “Oh, that’s just mildew in the corner” makes it sound as if the problem will go away with the blink of an eye compared to thinking that you have mold growing. Everybody knows that if you have mold, then you’ve got a problem.

Cosmetic Molds

People often inspect their homes for mold when someone in their household gets sick or they see a news report on mold.

People tend to get nervous and think every black spot warrants a thorough inspection.

On occasion some visible mold can be determined to be harmless and “cosmetic” old mold that was present when the building was constructed.

While it is always possible that additional more harmful molds are present in addition to the cosmetic mold, if there is no leak history nor any other evidence of mold growth in a building and if there are no health or building-related occupant complaints, the identification of the cosmetic mold described here might be accomplished by visual inspection alone, saving on more costly professional mold tests.

For example, sometimes on beams and rafters there is “cosmetic mold” If it is only on one or two boards in a section and stops abruptly, the boards most likely came that way, because mold doesn’t stop growing in straight lines.

If you don’t like the look of it, you can remove it with cleaning solutions. Cosmetic mold will not reappear, but if it does, it was not cosmetic mold and new mold is growing, and it is time to look for the causes.

Walls and Ceilings

The discoloration that looks like mold on walls or ceilings, but seems to grow in stripes where joists are, is probably no more than stains caused by thermal tracking.

This is when dust and dirt collect on cooler parts of your walls and ceilings.

Scented candles, dirty furnaces and poor ventilation contribute to this type of staining.

Toxic Mold

Types of Mold

• Cladosporium
• Penicillium
• Aspergillus
• Alternaria
• Mucor
• Stachybotrys
• Memnoniella
• Acremonium

There are three types of black mold that are less common but are considered very serious health hazards.

Mold infestation can be obvious or it can be hidden in places like behind walls and underneath appliances.

Occupants often become sick from exposure before a mold problem is even suspected.

Recognizing the differences between harmless mold and toxic mold will not only save you a lot of time and money, but it will also alleviate much worry in your life.

Unfortunately, sometimes you will find mold that needs to be removed from your property.

There are over 100 000 mold species, some more harmful than others.

Mold spores are less than 4 microns in size. Spores are so small that as many as 250,000 spores can fit onto the head of a pin. In one minute your lungs can take in over seven hundred thousand of these spores.

It is believed that as many as fifty percent of all homes and buildings may have some level of Stachybotrys infestation.

According to some, “Mold Exposure is perhaps the single most misdiagnosed illness in the United States.”

Prolonged exposure to mold can stimulate allergic like reactions in people as well as cause an assortment of illness symptoms.

It appears that people with better immunity will be able to tolerate the ill effects of mold; however, people who are under stress, have weakened immunities, are allergic to mold or are seniors are at greater risk to develop illnesses related to mold mycotoxins in their homes.

Also, mold can make pets sick as well!

The website for the Center of Disease Prevention has an excellent database of common molds and diseases caused by exposure to them. Please refer to this link.

Mold: it’s everyone’s worst enemy.

So what should you do when you discover that you have a mold problem in your home?

Most people tend to think that you can take care of the problem yourself. With so many mold removal How To articles on the internet, if you’re brave enough, you might just go for it.

Unfortunately, most people do not have access to proper protection gear or even proper mold removal disinfectants.

Well what about bleach?

Unfortunately, the notion that bleach kills mold is false. Bleach merely “bleaches” the color out while the mold roots remain intact and continue to grow.

Furthermore, you need to do more than just kill mold, you have to remove it.

 

To remove mold, a series of steps must be taken with great safety.

From properly removing the mold and the affected surface to properly disposing of the mold (even dead mold gives off volatile organic compounds and is a potential allergen).

For example, a common misconception that consumers come across is that you can effectively remove mold from your bathroom tile.

Again, most so called mold killers commonly available on the market are made of bleach.

Truly, the only way to remove the mold from your shower stall is to completely remove the grout and re-grout the tile with a new application.

Mold remediation companies are fully equipped to handle any mold situation, from small to large.

Usually, after the initial call is made, a specialist will come out and assess the situation. Usually, from that point, a quote can be made.

Next, a thorough mold inspection will take place as well as mold testing. After the inspection and testing are done, the mold removal and remediation processes will take place.

In no time, your property will be restored and mold-free.

Keep Your Home Mold Free

To keep your home mold-free, you simply have to control excess moisture in your home.

When it comes to identifying the signs and probable causes of moisture and moisture-related indoor air quality problems in your home, there are several practical solutions that any homeowner can take to reduce moisture and make the home less hospitable to mold.

Many household problems can be solved if you adopt strategies to prevent excess moisture in the home, perform maintenance or minor repairs and/or hire a professional restoration company to make repairs.

Often, mold damage is a direct result of flooding or storms. In the event of a flood, especially a flood caused by sewage back-up, it is critical you call a professional restoration company for emergency water removal.

The technicians can dry out your home completely and make it uninhabitable for mold to grow.

In sum, know what is mold, what isn’t mold, and know when to call for help!